11/24/2023 0 Comments Special eddition black diamond atc![]() A leg wrap can be added for a greater security to the autoblock. To go hands free first assure the autoblock is holding.Lessen friction only after autoblock is securely holding the rope. In an emergency, or to engage the autoblock, let go of the autoblock while maintaining brake hand friction.If additional friction is needed slide brake hand under climbers seat.Original brake hand will now manage autoblock. To change hands remove hand from autoblock and transfer brake control from one hand to the other, never letting go.One hand slides the autoblock while the other hand controls the braking friction on both strands of rope.To begin descent reduce friction in brake hand while sliding the autoblock.Place non-brake hand on autoblock and begin sliding it.With brake hand on both strands well below device use other hand to remove PAS from anchor and stow.With braking applied, slide autoblock down to create enough slack to body weigh the device while being careful not to tension the PAS or autoblock.Slide autoblock up toward device, and with gloved brake hand on both strands and being careful not to tension the PAS, loosen brake hand enough to weight the autoblock to make sure it will hold and that it cannot not reach into the device to defeat the autoblock.Review the system in a serial manner from anchor to landing: SERENE anchors, rope threading, autoblock, device, carabiner, belay loop, harness, stopper knots and landing.Note that a toothed device, such as the Black Diamond ATC-XP can be set up with less friction (above), or with more friction by placing the brake strands along the teeth (right). Clip device into both distal extending sling loops with carabiner. ![]() With device located as close to anchor as practical thread rope bight through rappel device.Pull rope up through autoblock to form bight of rope for threading device -the autoblock holds the weight of hanging rope strands.Attach autoblock to belay loop with its locking carabiner.A properly sized autoblock will not slide down the rope when left on the rope.One can attach the autoblock and carabiner to the rope while the preceding climber is on rappel.Tuck hair and any loose objects out of the way.Add carabiner and device through both distal loops.Thread half of a double-length (120 cm) sewn sling through harness hard points and tie both ends into a figure eight on a bight.This independent PAS also provides greater range of movement at the anchor. In order for the PAS to remain a dedicated anchor, in general it should not be duplicated as a rappel extension, as a rappel extension is not an anchor system. The PAS should remain independent of the rappel set-up. Many climbers use a Personal Anchor System (PAS) as one of two dedicated points from which to secure themselves to the anchor. This method provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms reach while on rappel.Įxtending a rappel has become standard practice in many alpine contexts because it allows clearer visibility of the system, puts the brake hand in a natural, comfortable position, and allows for easy management of an autoblock. The Mountaineers recommends using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting.
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